Orchid Borealis

I purchased this plant as Lepanthes pilosella ( Neooreophilus pilosellum ) from Orquídeas del Valle .  But it turned out to be Lepanthes platysepala, instead.   L. platysepala was originally described by Luer and Escobar in 1994 ( link to the original illustration , Luer 1994). It belongs to subgenus  Brachycladium  which contains about 38 species (Archila and Higgins 2008).  The subgenus is characterized by the pendulous growth habit, short ramicaulis, and petals not lobed.  In the past, this subgenus was proposed to be separated to genus Brachycladium (Luer 2005),  Oreophilus (Archila and Higgins 2008) or Neooreophilus . This species is frequently confused with L. pilosella , and the original description (Luer 1994,  link ) mentioned the differences between the two species: L. pilosella : concave, stripped dorsal sepal, L. platysepala : flatter and more open dorsal sepal with dots.  It is interesting that in some photos of L. pilosella , the lip enclosing the column is more

Epidendrum is a large genus with amazing diveristy.   Epidendrum schizoclinandrium is in Nanodes group ( link to IOSPE ), which contains another cool-looking species,  E.  medusa .  Some of the related species look somewhat similar, and Parsons and Gerritsen (2013, p. 466-469) listed 10 similar species and their geographic distributions: E. gonzalez-tamayoi (Mexico), E. serruliferum (Costa Rica, Central Panama), E. congestum (Costa Rica, Honduras), E. congestoides (Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica),   E. schlechterianum (Panama), E. oxynanodes (Colombia), E. uleinanodes (N. Brazil, Ecuador), E. longirepens  (Peru), E. schizoclinandrium (Peru), and E. neodiscolor (Brazil).   Some of them are warm growers and others are cool growers.  I haven't looked into the differences between them, but my plant seems to resemble  E. schizoclinandrium from casual comparison with the photos. The type specimen of E. schizoclinandrium  was collected in Peru,  Pasco Region

Photography is about light and darkness, so you can get very different images from the same subject depending on how you set up the light.  I shouldn't say that lighting is the MOST important factor because finding an interesting subject and composition comes before the light.  In terms of the gear, appropriate, easy-to-control light sources can dramatically improve the images (or shorten the time required to get the images you want).  On the other hand, you might or might not get marginally better images by upgrading the camera body.  And they are usually much cheaper than a new camera body. I have been using two to three speedlights/flashes for most of plant photography.  They are tripped by inexpensive radio remote flash triggers.  Since I don't use TTL for this kind of photography, I just use old and cheap manual flashes. I frequently use a soft box or umbrellas as the light modifiers.  These modifiers make the light more diffused.  Without the modifiers, the light b

This was written in 2016, and since then, there are several linear modules which have higher efficiencies.  At the very end of this post, I added the information about these updates.  Samsung EB-Series Gen. 3 Slim version is probably the one I would use (Sept 2019) if I were to redo this fixture. Happy thanksgiving, everyone! Recently, I needed a grow light for a relatively small grow area (the plastic container shown above).  COB LEDs are great for a large area with enough vertical space.  I could have used smaller COB LEDs, but I thought something like Philips XF-3535L ( previous post ) would be great.  After comparing quite a few LED linear modules, I determined that Samsung H series has the best performance for the price at this moment.  Indeed the efficacy is amazing, even higher than typical COB.  But it does cost a bit more per light output than COB.  So here is a brief report of this build. Samsung H series was announced in summer 2016, and it became available in the U

The large boat shaped structure (bottom side of the flower) is the synsepal. Dresslerella is a small genus with about 13 species at this moment.  Most of them have distinctive fuzzy leaves and flowers.  There has been a confusion about D. lasiocampa and D. hirsutissima , and many plants sold as D. hirsutissima  were actually D. lasiocampa .  Indeed, I purchased my plant as D. hirsutissima PRS1362 from Mundiflora , but it turned out to be D. lasiocampa . Medina and Pupulin (2010) has a good review of the history of this confusion as well as an easy key to identify Dresslerella species.  Briefly, the confusion originated from the illustration of D. hirsutissima in Luer (1988, link to the illustration).  The illustration was based on D. lasiocampa.  In 2005, Luer and Hirtz noticed the error and described the new species D. lasiocampa, based on this specimen.  Luer has the updated, correct illustration in the later volume of Icones Pleurothallidinarum (2005, link to the illus

Plants are all potted up. I have always wanted to order Nepenthes from Wistuba in Germany.  I finally did it this fall!  I personally don't care about artificially created hybrids, and Wistuba has the widest selection of Nepenthes and Heliamphora species.  They have so many cool plants, so I had to watch out the budget and be selective.  I received the shipment 2 days ago!  Very excited!  Now all  Nepenthes are under CITES appendix II (some are under app. I).  But Wistuba has distributors in several countries including the USA.  So you don't have to go through the importation process by yourself.  You can order via their web page like domestic shopping. Wistuba ships the pooled orders to the US once a month, and the distributor takes care of the importation, and send the plants within the US.  It is a fairly good and simple system from the buyer's perspective.  It costs 60 Euro for documentation, international and domestic shipping, but it is reasonable for the eas